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< Back to “Sarah’s Turkish Travels” Introduction Sarah’s Turkish Travels Day 6By Sarah Yeomans, Travel Study Director and Managing Web Editor
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Çanakkale-Alexandria Troas-Pergamon-İzmirThis morning was an early start. We had a lot to see, and that meant getting up a bit earlier—OK, a lot earlier—than I would have otherwise. One of the objectives of this trip is to see as many of the seven churches of the Book of Revelation as possible. These “churches” are defined more specifically as the Christian communities living in the ancient Greek cities, and not physical church structures. This is convenient, since the early Christian communities didn’t meet in the type of large public buildings we know today and their humble gathering places don’t exist anymore.
According to the Book of Revelation, Jesus instructs his servant John to:
Write in a book what thou seest, and send it unto the seven churches which are in Asia; unto Ephesus, and unto Smyrna, and unto Pergamos, and unto Thyatira, and unto Sardis, and unto Philadelphia, and unto Laodicea. (Revelation 1:11) John dutifully records the subject matter of his two different visions, the material for which comprises the Book of Revelation (also known as the Book of the Apocalypse). The first vision is a statement to the seven churches of Asia, while the second, longer vision is a nightmarish play-by-play of the End of Days.
In his addresses to the seven Christian communities, St. John alternately exhorts, condemns, warns, praises and advises. Some cities came out looking better than others from the early Christian point of view, but all seven addresses give a vibrant portrait of what Christian life was like in this part of the pagan world.
Today, we were visiting Pergamon and Smyrna (modern-day İzmir) with a stop in Alexandria Troas along the way.
After once again boarding the coach, we set off. Our first stop was to be Alexandria Troas, a city that reached its zenith in the Roman era, when it functioned as a significant port for traders and travelers moving between Anatolia and Europe. It is from here that Paul of Tarsus set sail for Europe, and to here that he eventually returned (Acts 16:8–11). It is also the place where St. Paul is said to have raised the boy Eutychus from the dead (Acts 20:5–6).
For Christians the site’s association with St. Paul gives it a spiritual significance. For the archaeologist, the site is an exercise in frustration, as there is very little that remains visible above ground. It is clear from the massive earthen mound, however, that much of this once-great city remains unexcavated. For the casual visitor or tourist, the site may well be a disappointment, unless one goes just to admire the azure Aegean lapping at the sand-choked remains of what was Alexandria Troas’s ancient harbor.
In antiquity, the town would have been formidable; walls with a circumference of over 6 miles surrounded the city, which also boasted an aqueduct, a gymnasium and a bath. While some remains of these structures are visible at irregular intervals in the landscape, the vast majority have either been long-since plundered or lie buried underground. We all snapped a few photos and climbed back onto the bus, happy to be on our way to the next site.
One of the downsides of traveling by coach with a jam-packed itinerary is that there is very rarely time to have a leisurely lunch at one of the region’s fabulous restaurants. Happily, the establishments located along the main highways that cater to busloads of tourists put American rest stops, with their fast-food, heart-attack-inducing cuisine, to utter shame. The majority of these places seem to be pretty serious about the quality of their food, and I rarely had a disappointing meal. I tried to make it a point to try as many of the local dishes as possible (well, except the chilled brains—I have my limits), and that included ayran, a salty yogurt drink that sounds much worse than it actually is. In fact, it really grew on me—like most Turks, I found it to be refreshing as well as stomach-settling. While you can buy sealed containers of it in any store, I loved the homemade variety, where the fresh mixture is kept in cold vats and constantly churned to keep its contents at the ideal frothy consistency.
 Click to view a slide show of larger images and captions. After a quick but wonderful meal we were on our way to Pergamon—one of the churches of Revelation—and also the city of Galen, the famous 2nd-century Roman physician.
The day was spectacular. The menacing clouds that had accompanied us earlier had cleared and resolved themselves into the fluffy white variety. They raced across the sky on what seemed like gale-force wind, judging by the way we were all struggling to keep our balance and shouting to be heard. Pergamon’s lofty perch affords it not only phenomenal views, but also exposes it to the fierce winds that careen across the mountains.
It may not sound like fun, but believe me, it was. The wind energized us—its crisp and cool energy blew away our bus-induced lethargy, and soon we were scrambling up the hill, eager to get to the acropolis, located at the highest point of the site. I had the privilege of traveling with about six or seven dignified professors of various aspects of ancient and Biblical history as well as their students, and all of us were laughing and tumbling about the magnificent ruins like children at recess.
 Click to view a slide show of larger images and captions. The theater of Pergamon is magnificent. It is the steepest such structure known from the ancient world, and standing at the top buffeted by strong winds was enough to induce vertigo. One of my traveling companions, Doug, a distinguished professor of theology and an all-around great guy, would prove to be a delightful “partner-in-crime” throughout the trip. The two of us decided that we couldn’t possibly leave without first climbing down the commanding theater, which we proceeded to do with great haste—a haste primarily induced by the powerful wind at our backs. How we didn’t end up in a tumbled heap at the bottom I don’t know, but it was a fabulous way to end our visit to a site that will remain in my memory as one of the highlights of the trip.
 Click to view a slide show of larger images and captions. I could have spent an entire day at Pergamon, and when I return to Turkey, I will do so. But for now, we were off to İzmir, where we would spend the night. The modern city of İzmir sits on top of the ancient city of Smyrna, and so, with the exception on a few excavations within the modern landscape, there is very little evidence of the ancient city that was home to one of the churches of Revelation. For many Christians, however, just being in İzmir has a special spiritual significance. Of the seven churches mentioned in Revelation, ancient Smyrna is the only one that has a modern incarnation—all the others are now archaeological sites in varying states of preservation.
 Click to view a slide show of larger images and captions. The city itself is lovely. It curls around the Gulf of İzmir and hugs the shoreline, forming a half-moon shape made of glittering modern buildings. Modern İzmir is the third most populous city in Turkey and boasts the second-largest port in the country after Istanbul. It is clean, modern and elegant, with cafés, restaurants and fashionable shops lining its wide streets. While we are going to have to leave early tomorrow, I will be passing through İzmir again on my way back, and so I’ll be able to explore it properly in a few days.
But for now, iyi geceler—“good night!”
Turkey TourSarah- My wife and I had the awesome experience of traveling on our own in Turkey in 1986 and we've never been the same. We promised ourselves that one day we would return. We fell in love with the Turkish people and their heritage. May your group have a great trip -they'll be in good company. • • • • • • • MalcomFrom this report, one would deduce that Turkey is the richest country in the world....no sign of poverty anywhere. Thanks for adding a few words and pix of Biblical sites. • • • • • • • TurkiyeSarah, it was such a privilege meeting you on this unique trip. Zane and I had a wonderful time as it was a very educational trip Your writing of this trip came in very helpful as I will be bringing a program on our trip to our Senior Townsy Day this month. Thank you for putting me on this list. Love, Betty • • • • • • • blog on on Turkey travelI too would like to see some of the mundane itinerary details--addresses, websites, etc. Great writing, which I will use for planning my upcoming trip. • • • • • • • A New PerspectiveThank you Sarah, you have given me a new perspective on Turkey in general, but Istanbul in particular. It is really your closing comments on her transition from what was really a medieval world to a modern world in a painfully short time. I had never really considered the meaning that might have before. There armis many places in the world I don’t suppose, where you can go enjoy the modern conveniences while strolling through a medieval world and do it all is safety. There are of course the classics like Rome, Venice,and their well pedigreed ilk, but it seems to me the medieval now resides there in the architecture and emotional history alone. In Turkey I imagine it’s more palpable in the atmosphere. Thanks for the reports! • • • • • • • Turkish TravelsHaving read and re-read CS Lewis' Narnia Series, "The Lion Witch and The Wardrobe" features Turkish Delight as the temptation that almost cost one of the heroes his very soul. What IS Turkish Delight? Is it that good? • • • • • • • Turkish DelightDelightful article. The author's ability to mix vivid imagery with her historical insights -- and to spice it up with a bit of wit and humor -- makes for informative and enjoyable reading. I look forward to future installments! • • • • • • • Sarah YeomanOur "Contessa" is on the move again. Looking forward to the next installment. • • • • • • • Sarah's Turkish TravelsWonderfully written. Her excitment,energy,discovery,and honesty grabbed me and carried me into her experience. I felt like a best friend who could not go on the trip and she transended the bountries of time and space taking me with her. I look forward to "our" next adventure. • • • • • • • Reminisces of IstanbulI lived with my family in Kuwait for 12 years from 1970 to 1982. We had the opportunity to travel a great deal over those years and Istanbul was one of our favorite spots. One of our pleasures was to stand on the street and hail a taxi that was a "vintage" automobile of some sort, perhaps a 1940 Dodge or whatever. There were many auto parts shops to match the demand to keep these old cars running. The food, the people, and the sights were splendid. • • • • • • • Turkey visitI really loved reading Sarah's entry - all the more because my husband and I are leaving on Sat for a 3 week trip to Turkey and Greece. I will keep a close watch on Sarah's whereabouts -we may even catch up! • • • • • • • TurkeySarah - I loved Turkey more than I ever could have imagined. Have a wonderful time. I would go back in a heartbeat. Thank you for letting me travel along with you. Mary Anne • • • • • • • Sarah's Turkey trip.This is as close to a trip to Turkey that I'll ever make. I feel as if I'm right there in the middle of every descriptive word that Sarah uses to tell us her travel story. I look forward to every word she writes. Thank you Sarah. GiGi Orru • • • • • • • Turkey ExperienceWell written article. Felt like I was with the author. Was disappointed when I discovered there was no more to read! • • • • • • • Wonderful! I look forward to the journeyA delightful article. I have recently taken a casual interest in Turkey and istanbul in particular. I even ordered some Christmas gifts last year from some private shops I found on the web in and around istanbul. I can see how I will thoroughly enjoy this adventure and I don’t even have to leave home. Any chance of an itinerary, or list of possible sights you might be visiting? Not necessary, but nice to have. • • • • • • • |
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