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< Back to “Sarah’s Turkish Travels” Introduction Sarah’s Turkish Travels Day 1By Sarah Yeomans, Travel Study Director and Managing Web Editor
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Introduction to IstanbulNo matter how long I’ve been traveling or how tired I am, I am almost always excited by landing in an airport overseas. Words on signs, written in a language that isn’t my own, are indecipherable announcements that I am about to embark on a new adventure.
Upon arriving at Istanbul’s international airport, a smiling young woman holding a sign with my name on it greeted me after I came through immigration, and she and the equally pleasant driver whisked me away to a waiting car, and off we drove toward Istanbul, a city that I had built up in my mind to the status of legend. It has, for centuries, been the point where the west and east collide and merge, and blend together in a surprisingly seamless fashion. This is no metaphor: the city literally straddles both the Asian and the European continent, and the Bosphorus straight is—and has been for millennia—one of the most strategic waterways in the world. Originally named Constantinople, the modern city of Istanbul is a palimpsest of three of the world’s most formidable civilizations: the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, and the Ottoman Empire.
Gazing out the window as we drove into the city, I was reminded of Istanbul’s place in the pantheon on history’s great cities. Our car passed directly beneath the soaring arches of the aqueduct of Valens, a double-tiered engineering masterpiece that was completed by the Roman emperor Valens in 368 A.D. and maintained over time by the Ottoman sultans. The aqueduct was a part of a system of such structures that totaled over 250 kilometers in length and supplied the city’s underground cisterns that had a capacity of over 1 million cubic meters. Today, the remains of the aqueduct are in wonderful condition and tower over the modern vehicles and pedestrians that pass beneath its arches.
 Click to view a slide show of larger images and captions. After passing under the aqueduct, one of the first things that I noticed about the surrounding landscape were the flowers—thousands of them. Along the busy roadway that led from the airport into the heart Istanbul, vibrant, multi-colored pansies planted in thick, serpentine patterns on lush, green banks of grass flanked the streets. It was a spectacular and altogether unexpected greeting, and I couldn’t help but wonder what else the city had in store—any place that takes such care in cultivating beauty in its public spaces must be extraordinary. Somewhere in the back of my sleep-deprived mind, I also registered how clean the streets and buildings were. For a teeming city of 13 million inhabitants, Istanbul is surprisingly clean and well-maintained.
When I arrived at my hotel after traveling all night and most of the next day, I hadn’t slept in a very long time. I had decided on the plane that I would go straight to bed and tackle the city the next morning, when I was reasonably coherent. The city, it turns out, had other plans for me. Arriving at my hotel, the Anemon Galata, I was delighted to find that it was situated perfectly. Perched on a hill overlooking the river called the “Golden Horn,” the stately building was nestled beneath the famous Galata tower, a 6th century conical tower that was originally built by the Byzantines to monitor shipping into its busy and prosperous port. After the conquest of Istanbul by the Ottomans in 1453, it was turned into a prison and naval depot, and took on a more benign and noble function in the 16th century when it was converted into an observatory by the famous Turkish astronomer Takiuddin. Today, it hosts a café on its upper level, and affords a magnificent view of Istanbul. It also happily functions as a very visible landmark for this directionally-challenged visitor.
 Click to view a slide show of larger images and captions. Stepping out of the car, the smell of the sea swept up the hill and swirled around the square as the haunting adhan, the Islamic call to prayer, began. This hauntingly beautiful chant sung by the muezzin, who is a person chosen at each mosque especially to sing the adhan, is the call which summons devout Muslims to their prayers, which they perform five times a day. It seems to also serve as a call to me: I can sleep later—the city must be explored—and explore it I do. I walk round the ancient cobblestone streets and take in the restaurants, architecture and vistas. Trying to get my bearings, I make a note of the cafes, produce stores and shops closest to my hotel. Caught up in sentimental romanticism, I am reminded how very modern and westernized this city is when I pass no fewer than three Starbucks, two Burger Kings and one MacDonald’s in the course of my four-mile stroll. Istanbul does indeed seem to be what all of my guide books say it is: a lively and at-times incongruent blend of western and eastern cultures, traditions and commercialism.
I am drawn into an antique book and map store – the kind of place I am rarely able to resist. Here, I have my first introduction to Turkish hospitality and graciousness. When I inquired about any antique astronomy books that they might have in their collection, the owner replied in beautifully accented and perfect English that while he does indeed have them, he is such a fan of them himself that he keeps them for his own collection. He then brought them out for me to look at them, explaining how the star charts functioned and allowed me to look through them to my heart’s content, even knowing that there was no prospect of a sale.
I continued my meandering walk up the Galata quarter’s busy main street, the Istiklal Caddesi, in search of a quiet restaurant where I might enjoy some of the city’s famous culinary talents and read my guidebook. Along the way, the modern cell phone and clothing stores shared the crowded street with produce shops and bakeries, whose wares spilled out of the storefront displays in a colorful and fragrant riot that delighted my eyes and nose and made my stomach rumble. I wandered into a quiet-looking seafood restaurant, where I was seated by a smiling waiter whose English was about as good as my Turkish (non-existent), but whose experience hosting foreign visitors made him much better than I at using elegant hand gestures to communicate. He carried over a massive tray with about 15 different small plates of savory meats, fish and vegetables, from which I could choose simply by pointing. Thus supplied with about five plates of delicious looking dishes, I lost myself in both the food and the guidebook I had brought along.
 Click to view a slide show of larger images and captions.  Click to view a slide show of larger images and captions. When I came out of my reading-induced reverie, I noticed that the restaurant had filled up around me. Istanbul has a lively nightlife, and Turkish men, women and families filled the surrounding tables with boisterous chatter—and smoke. There is no ban on smoking in restaurants in Turkey—at least not one that is enforced—and prolific cigarette smoking in the country is one of the more unpleasant aspects of crowded places. It prompted me to call for the check, where I experienced the second unpleasant shock of the evening: the bill. While most restaurants are quite reasonably priced—indeed, often less expensive than equivalent establishments in Western Europe or the U.S—the wine is exorbitant. A friend later explained to me that this is a result of the extremely high taxes on the beverage. This was in sharp contrast to Italy, where a pitcher of good table wine costs about the same as the bottled water. Oenophiles traveling to Turkey: consider yourselves warned.
 Click to view a slide show of larger images and captions. I left the restaurant in mourning for the wine that living in Italy had led me to expect at every evening meal, but my next discovery made up for it: juice stands lining the street featured heaps of pomegranates and oranges. For $.75, the fellows who operate them will fresh-squeeze the fruit into a huge cup of some of the best fresh juice I’d ever had—my health-nut mother would approve.
Tomorrow, I will set out to explore Istanbul—I would say that I am too excited to sleep, but somehow I think I’ll manage.
Turkey TourSarah- My wife and I had the awesome experience of traveling on our own in Turkey in 1986 and we've never been the same. We promised ourselves that one day we would return. We fell in love with the Turkish people and their heritage. May your group have a great trip -they'll be in good company. • • • • • • • MalcomFrom this report, one would deduce that Turkey is the richest country in the world....no sign of poverty anywhere. Thanks for adding a few words and pix of Biblical sites. • • • • • • • TurkiyeSarah, it was such a privilege meeting you on this unique trip. Zane and I had a wonderful time as it was a very educational trip Your writing of this trip came in very helpful as I will be bringing a program on our trip to our Senior Townsy Day this month. Thank you for putting me on this list. Love, Betty • • • • • • • blog on on Turkey travelI too would like to see some of the mundane itinerary details--addresses, websites, etc. Great writing, which I will use for planning my upcoming trip. • • • • • • • A New PerspectiveThank you Sarah, you have given me a new perspective on Turkey in general, but Istanbul in particular. It is really your closing comments on her transition from what was really a medieval world to a modern world in a painfully short time. I had never really considered the meaning that might have before. There armis many places in the world I don’t suppose, where you can go enjoy the modern conveniences while strolling through a medieval world and do it all is safety. There are of course the classics like Rome, Venice,and their well pedigreed ilk, but it seems to me the medieval now resides there in the architecture and emotional history alone. In Turkey I imagine it’s more palpable in the atmosphere. Thanks for the reports! • • • • • • • Turkish TravelsHaving read and re-read CS Lewis' Narnia Series, "The Lion Witch and The Wardrobe" features Turkish Delight as the temptation that almost cost one of the heroes his very soul. What IS Turkish Delight? Is it that good? • • • • • • • Turkish DelightDelightful article. The author's ability to mix vivid imagery with her historical insights -- and to spice it up with a bit of wit and humor -- makes for informative and enjoyable reading. I look forward to future installments! • • • • • • • Sarah YeomanOur "Contessa" is on the move again. Looking forward to the next installment. • • • • • • • Sarah's Turkish TravelsWonderfully written. Her excitment,energy,discovery,and honesty grabbed me and carried me into her experience. I felt like a best friend who could not go on the trip and she transended the bountries of time and space taking me with her. I look forward to "our" next adventure. • • • • • • • Reminisces of IstanbulI lived with my family in Kuwait for 12 years from 1970 to 1982. We had the opportunity to travel a great deal over those years and Istanbul was one of our favorite spots. One of our pleasures was to stand on the street and hail a taxi that was a "vintage" automobile of some sort, perhaps a 1940 Dodge or whatever. There were many auto parts shops to match the demand to keep these old cars running. The food, the people, and the sights were splendid. • • • • • • • Turkey visitI really loved reading Sarah's entry - all the more because my husband and I are leaving on Sat for a 3 week trip to Turkey and Greece. I will keep a close watch on Sarah's whereabouts -we may even catch up! • • • • • • • TurkeySarah - I loved Turkey more than I ever could have imagined. Have a wonderful time. I would go back in a heartbeat. Thank you for letting me travel along with you. Mary Anne • • • • • • • Sarah's Turkey trip.This is as close to a trip to Turkey that I'll ever make. I feel as if I'm right there in the middle of every descriptive word that Sarah uses to tell us her travel story. I look forward to every word she writes. Thank you Sarah. GiGi Orru • • • • • • • Turkey ExperienceWell written article. Felt like I was with the author. Was disappointed when I discovered there was no more to read! • • • • • • • Wonderful! I look forward to the journeyA delightful article. I have recently taken a casual interest in Turkey and istanbul in particular. I even ordered some Christmas gifts last year from some private shops I found on the web in and around istanbul. I can see how I will thoroughly enjoy this adventure and I don’t even have to leave home. Any chance of an itinerary, or list of possible sights you might be visiting? Not necessary, but nice to have. • • • • • • • |
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